23 Jul 2010

First Bite: Mi Vecindad by Henry: Big Space, Big Food, Big Heart

Flounder ceviche, Cuban-style, at Mi Vecindad, opening night

I am now a patron of Patrón, the top-drawer Mexican tequila, as poured by the generous Henry, at the opening of his new restaurant, Mi Vecindad, down on 12th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, SE.

At the newest addition to the Pan-Latin panoply of restaurants on the Hill, from La Lomita to Henry’s popular Mexican/Salvadoran joint up the road, La Plaza, Mi Vecindad (meaning my neck of the woods, or my barrio, neighborhood, vicinity, in Spanish) is marked for the generosity not only of its owner, but of its portions. Situated in the old Pacific Cafe Vietnamese restaurant, Mi Vecindad utilizes the same open layout and neo-something (Greek?) architecture but brightens it with Caribbean blues and columns of yellows, fills it with music and light, and then gets down to business by heaping lots of sizzling meats, potatoes, green peppers and rice, on the plates of neighborhood patrons. In its enthusiasm and big-hearted pouring and plating, Mi Vecindad is filling the space in a way the anemic Pacific Cafe could not.

The menu, what you know and love from La Plaza, but with a Cuban twist (we struggled to pinpoint it, but the chef is Cuban so think chunks of potatoes AND rice and a richer, more root-vegetable stock). It boasts a lot of steak/beef dishes, pork and ribs in sauces, the old stand-by of fajitas, and more seafood offerings than La Plaza. Should I have gone with the shrimp? A beef cooked in red wine, Ropa Vieja, was rich and pungent, although a bit dry, and will be a great choice come autumn, while a beef taco and a chicken fajita had great grilled flavor but didn’t emerge as a new taste experience for my friends, veterans of Salvadoran, Mexican and Cuban spots from one corner of the Hill to the other. I split my plate with a friend–the taco and fajita plates could not be finished by my companions, as the portions were so generous.

Service was spotty at first, but this was opening night, with a painter still coming down off a ladder out front. More staff materialized after dusk. When my blonde friend Laura finally showed up, fresh from a summertime PTA meeting, decent but standard margaritas really started to flow. Indeed, she got the biggest glass.

The servings were heaping– no one is skimping here– on the flavors or the cooking time. The fried sweet plantains are good enough to become their own pie filling (maybe in the fall), and the ceviche was chunkier–big curls of red onions, sushi-sized flounder pieces — and bigger than one would expect, but this appetizer or entrada was enough for four. The lemon zing was perfect for our humid, hot summer evenings, and the flavor was strong. The texture was new to us, but I like to mix it up with my ceviches.

One of my friends noted there are many similar options on the Hill, and Mi Vecindad should strive to distinguish itself from the pack and form a loyal base like the others have. Just inhabiting this sometimes forlorn corner of the Hill, and adding a little outdoor seating, family-friendly atmosphere and nearby parking, along with generosity with a slice of lime will go a long way to making it stay . It’s a place to keep in mind for mid-sized events, impulse lunches, group outings (walk off the strong margs, although you will find plenty of parking after 7 PM here) or dinner from an extensive and indulgent menu, preceded by drink at the lively and lush, curved bar, also a remnant of Pacific Cafe. The neighborhood was out in force tonight to greet its newest venture, with people calling out to Senor Henry, flowers coming in with passers-by intrigued by the new, bright blue restaurant filled with chummy patrons seated at tables with white tablecloths (a la Pacific Cafe). Welcome to The Vecindad, Henry! The new neighborhood gathering place can be reached at 202-546-4760.

Mi Vecindad owner Henry pours Patrón with a lime for diners during his restaurant's grand opening.

Mi Vecindad owner Henry pours shots of Patrón for all during his restaurant's grand opening.

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14 responses to “First Bite: Mi Vecindad by Henry: Big Space, Big Food, Big Heart”

  1. Mark says:

    Oh wow I wassn’t sure they were that cloise to opening. Best of luck to them, I’ll be stopping in soon. For outdoorseating I’ve noticed a kind of patio out back, is that what they envision?

    OT: Any word on what Annie and Teddy’s will be serving up the street?

  2. Elizabeth Festa says:

    Mark, I was just told that he plan for outdoor seating is still in the works,” but Henry has a Sidewalk Cafe license for up to 24 people. In cooperation with the ANC and one of his neighbors, Henry voluntarily amended his application for a liquor license to take out his request for a Summer Garden endorsement for the area behind the restaurant. He plans on re-applying in the Fall, however.” This block has been an ANC-liquor license football for awhile…

  3. Marybindc says:

    Before it was Pacific Cafe it was an Italian Restaurant (anyone remember the name? I don’t recall), so maybe that’s the architectural “style” you’re seeing, such that it is.

    Glad to hear they’re open.

  4. Liz says:

    The old name is still written on the brick wall above it. Italian Cafe? Neo 20th Century Italianate? It is interesting no one has renovated it.

  5. SG says:

    The ANC needs to get a life and allow a liquor license out back. People are so freakin uptight and NIMBY. You’re living along Pennsylvania Ave for god sake.

    They already drove a good restaurant out of business in Dolce or whatever that restaurant was.

  6. It was, for decades, the glorious Caffe Italiano, one of the best Italian restaurants DC has enjoyed. The sturdy Old World chairs, the white tablecloths, the fabulous curving bar all date back to that warm and lovely place. There was even a charming mural of Florence on the back wall. What became of Rene and Ariel and the terrific chef? Henry as a lot to live up to, redeeming this space after the sad experience of the Pacific Grill.

  7. Kyra says:

    I can never remember which “La” restaurant is which–La Plaza, La Lomita. I’m happy for a new name and not just a II on a La. We hope to check it out when the weather breaks.

  8. b says:

    @SG

    They need to get the deck properly zoned, which it is not. Not to let facts or settled ANC proceedings get in the way of your whining, but Henry has already agreed to work with the neighbors on a sound remediation plan that would be mutually acceptable to both his establishment and the homeowners whose yards directly adjoin this space, potentially allowing the space to be used for food service (much like Dulce did before they opted to close AFTER reaching agreement with the neighbors who protested its liquor license terms primarily on hours of operation and 3rd party promotion).

    The deck was built ILLEGALLY by the building’s owner (not its tenants), and is not zoned for ANY use, not just limited by its liquor license.

    Get your facts straight.

  9. Mark says:

    Well I hope something can be worked out. It would really be nice to see people sitting outside on that strech of the block. If Dulce is gone forever I would really welcome the return of the awesome little Cafe Roma that tried to get a foothold in NE…that place had amazing homemade lasagna.

    Why doesn’t Henry just apply for the same Summer Garden license that others in the neighboorhood apparently have? I mean there’s already 24/7 outdoor seating with drinks served at the (recently renovated but rapidly deteriorating) park at Potomac and 13th. :-0

  10. b says:

    @Mark

    Henry already applied and was denied. The other cases may not have the same issues as this one, and 13th and Potomac is irrelevant here.

    The sticking point involves its direct exposure not to the street, but to the back yards of several houses on 12th and G Sts SE. It could be made to work with some effort, but it won’t fly with those neighbors as it stands now. According to my ANC rep discussions with neighbors are ongoing and it could be reconsidered in the fall if a mutually acceptable solution arises.

  11. Well, I am glad I don’t know those neighbors as it seems shortsighted and a properly run outside seating area shouldn’t be a problem.

  12. b says:

    @Need New Shocks

    Spoken by someone who will bear absolutely zero of the burden of service til 1am practically INSIDE their own backyard. Henry seems to get this, I’m amazed (but not really) at your lack of concern for your neighbors.

    Shortsided of the impacted neighbors to rightly register concern or the people who think yest another margarita/fajita joint trumps their neighbors’ right to live in reasonable peace? This is part of the normal process of obtaining the necessary commercial zoning.

    The neighbors could have easily just protested the license and held up their opening over this point but instead asked that the patio be dropped, to which Henry agreed voluntarily and offered to work with the neighbors and resubmit the zoning request. The only reason they’re open right now instead of Fall was the fast track ABRA approval to which no one objected.

  13. liz says:

    I believe Annie and Teddy’s was going to be cajun/creole Po’ Boy’s

  14. K says:

    someone mentioned the park at 13th and potomac. it might be irrelevant but i’m curious. i walk past it every day and am amazed that the city invested so much money fixing it and has made no effort to maintain it.

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